Assembly Guide

Screws Needed : 7 M2x6 / 4 M2.5x6 / 1 M2.5x8 / 2 M2.5X12 / 1 M3x12 

Heat-Set Inserts Needed : M2 / M2.5

4 10x4x1mm Neodymium magnets, available here

1 Spring action ballpoint pen

1 0.5 x 9.5 x 17 x 15mm Conical Spring, available here

1.5mm diameter brass rod: available here (UK) and here (US)

Superglue

Recommended Material : HP high reusability pa 12 in either grey or black for all external parts. Black SLS Nylon for all gears and the back plate

 
 
 
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Step 1 : Heat-Set Inserts.

Step 1 : Heat-Set Inserts.

the camera uses two types of heat set inserts, M2 & M2.5.

First start with the M2 inserts. the body has a total of 7 of them, all located on the top of the camera, three for the gear spacer and four for the top plate. The body also has two 2.5 inserts, both to hold the bottom plate. The main gear, sprocket gear 2 and rewind lever all also need M2.5 inserts.

 
 

Step 2 : Mount

Attach the M65x1 threaded ring to the body using 3 screws, one M3 on top and two M2.5 at the bottom.

Step 3 : Back & Lock

First make sure to clear out the back's tube on the right side, as it is often not extruded correctly, the easiest way to do this is with a 2mm drill bit, either by hand or using an actual drill.

Then you should glue the backplate to the back with some regular superglue, as well as glue the magnets to the back, the body and the lock. when placing the magnets in the lock, it can be useful to use another magnet to hold it in, by placing it on the outside of the lock, while it’s drying.

Two things to be keep in mind:

Firstly, make sure that you orient the magnet the right way around before gluing it in, otherwise your lock and your body will repel each other. Secondly, make sure that the two magnets on the body are facing the same way (i.e have the same pole facing outwards).

While you’re using the superglue, glue the bearing to the lever, apply the glue to the inner rim of the lever and press the bearing in, wipe up any glue that spills out. this should bond the two relatively solidly, if it ever breaks, just remove the bearing, and repeat the same process.

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Step 4 : Gearing Assembly

Start by putting the sprocket tube in the body, then put the sprocket gear through it. Now put the counter gear on its pin, insert the take-up spool/shaft, and put the ratchet in the direction as shown. You can now screw on the gear spacer.

Now take apart a ballpoint pen to get its spring, cut it to the appropriate length ( about the size of the coupling pin, but adjust as needed) and slide it onto the coupling pin. Then put on the coupling gear and the main gear on their pins, as well as the rewind shaft in its spot. Put the conical spring on the rewind shaft, so that the bottom has the smaller side, this will keep it from accidentally slipping.

If you find that the gearing is feeling rough, you can sand the gears surfaces a bit (not the teeth, but the flat parts that might be rubbing on the body/spacer and/or add some general purpose grease.

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Step 5 : Top and Bottom Plates

You're now ready to attach the top and bottom plates,

After you can slot on the lever and to the main gear, complete with its bearing, and screw on the cover onto it. You can now also attach the counter indicator and the rewind knob. The counter indicator needs a slightly longer M2.5x8 screw, if you want you can simply cut down a M2.5x12 screw instead of buying yet another screw length.

The Assembly is now complete.